Does red light therapy really improve your skin?

From glowing masks to rug-sized mats, red light therapy has been trending as noninvasive treatment for clearer, youthful skin. But is it effective?

"Red light therapy is having its moment," says Columbia dermatologist Victoria Perez, MD, "but I think social media can sometimes overhype the results. It's important to understand how it works so you have the right expectations going into it."

What is red light therapy?

Inside our cells, mitochondria—the famous "powerhouses" of the cell—absorb certain wavelengths of light and turn them into energy. Red light therapy involves shining red light wavelengths onto the skin, which can help skin cells produce more collagen, reduce inflammation, and repair damaged tissues.

Unlike UV light from the sun and tanning beds, red light does not damage skin cells or produce heat.

Red light therapy is a gentler way to rejuvenate and heal the skin compared to chemical peels, lasers, and injections, and can be done in-office or with at-home devices. When used consistently, it can lead to small improvements in the appearance of:

• Fine lines
• Skin texture
• Redness
• Acne
• Certain kinds of hair loss
• Scars

"There is scientific evidence that red light therapy leads to visible results. However, they're subtle, and you need to use the treatment several times a week for several months before you see noticeable changes," says Dr. Perez.

Dr. Perez recommends using red light therapy as a supplement to enhance results from other approaches, rather than as a primary treatment.

Are there risks to red light therapy?

Red light therapy is generally very safe. Some people may experience redness after treatment.

You should avoid red light therapy if you have certain skin conditions, such as melasma, as concentrated exposure to visible light may worsen hyperpigmentation.

Be sure to wear eye protection during treatment, as prolonged exposure to red light can damage the retina.

Do at-home red light products work, and how should you choose one?

The red light devices used in dermatology offices are generally stronger than at-home products. While consumer products can be effective, it's important to do your research because they're not regulated by the FDA. "Not all red light devices are created equally, and they're not one-size-fits-all," says Dr. Perez.

Look for devices that have laboratory safety certifications and emit the correct wavelengths of light—between 600 and 720 nanometers. Additionally, skin and hair conditions respond best to different wavelengths within that range, so make sure your device can address your specific concerns.

Is red light therapy worth trying?

Red light therapy can lead to noticeable skin and hair improvements, but it's important to manage expectations.

"It's a legitimate, evidence-based supplemental treatment with modest clinical impact. If you're curious about red light therapy a dermatologist or other physician can guide you to the most effective approach."